Christine Bayly — Ithaca via Clift's Kalymnos?

Charmian Clift was looking for a mermaid on Kalymnos; ‘a source, or a wonder, or a sign’. My search is not so much for a mermaid or a muse, but to understand and name something, which might be a source or a wonder, or perhaps a totem. Why is it that Greece means so much to me? 

A smile springs to my face and my step becomes jaunty as I pass through customs on arriving in Athens. I am surprised to find myself even smilier and jauntier when my bus disappears from the schedule and I inhale the rasping smoke of those having a few desperate drags on their cigarettes before their own bus arrives. I’m really here and I know there will be stony hillsides, seascapes, grilled lamb, goats among the olive trees, ancient sites and bouzouki music.

Perhaps Greece is my Ithaca; if so I’ve taken Cavafy’s advice and not hurried the journey; maybe I’ll know better after looking at it through Charmian’s eyes and digesting her insights.